Drink and Democracy: A Stroll Down Kentucky's Bourbon Trail
Oct. 2-4, 2008
the itinerary
- Thursday, October 2
-
Our adventure begins at Bardstown's Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History, where everything from novelty whiskey containers to retired moonshine stills are proudly displayed. We'll reconvene for a bourbon-soaked dinner and orientation lecture at Heaven Hill Distilleries' Bourbon Heritage Center, which strives to make scientific, historical and cultural sense of America's native spirit.
- Friday, October 3
-
A Kentucky pedigree does not a bourbon make: Federal law defines the stuff as American whiskey made from at least 51 percent corn, distilled to no more than 160 proof (if that number was higher, our trip might be shorter) and aged in new charred oak barrels. This morning, we'll examine bourbon's three critical components - water, corn and barrels - by wading through limestone streams with a University of Kentucky hydrologist, measuring staves with a cooper and tromping through ready-to-harvest fields with the farmer who keeps Maker's Mark in corn.
Back in Bardstown, we'll sup on fried chicken in the company of a Kentucky politico who made the most of moonshine and prepare for our afternoon-long bourbon colloquium, at which we'll drink our way to expertise.
And while we're tippling, dinner will be cooking. Thanks to
the fellows behind the award-winning 610
Barbecue and Burgoo
team, we're going to Burgin for a burgoo, a legendary chowdown featuring Kentucky's native stew, traditionally cooked down til the stirring paddle will stand up straight in the pot.
While burgoo is usually associated with political events, we'll be feasting at The Barn, a live bluegrass joint down a long country road. But in honor of the dish's electoral roots, political scientist Tracy Campbell will say grace with a short discourse on voting fraud in Kentucky.
- Saturday, October 4
-
Today we'll partake of the so-called "Angel's Share" as we step inside the world's most famed distilleries and inhale deeply of the phantom bourbon that inevitably escapes from their white oak aging barrels. But the malty, caramel-tinged aroma of the evaporated spirit only hints at the richness of the mellowing bourbon left behind: We'll meet with top bourbon alchemists on their home turf to learn how they mix water, grain, wood and time to produce their award-winning whiskies.
Our sherpa for today's romp through bourbon country is Mike Veach, a bourbon historian who was recently inducted into the Bourbon Hall of Fame. "I learned everything I know from Mike," is one of the phrases most frequently uttered by discerning bourbon afficandos, who flock to his Louisville tastings and seminars.
We begin with breakfast at Maker's Mark, where we'll carbo-load for a day of distillery visits. Our palate-training menu features a spread of breads made from mash bill grains, including corn, rye, wheat and barley. After our tour, we'll
head to Woodford Reserve for another tour and a Hot Brown lunch prepared by
Chef-in-Residence David Larson, who's prepared his whiskey-infused cuisine at the James Beard House. Our trifecta of bourbon tours will end at Buffalo Trace, the first distillery to ship whiskey down the Mississippi River.
Since all elections lead to celebration (although sometimes not before a fair bit of brawling and caterwauling), we'll mark the end of our tour with a victory party featuring traditional bourbon punches and a primer on toasting, led by noted cocktail historian David Wondrich, author of "Imbibe!" Or as one popular verse put it: "When we get together and Kentucky whisky flows/ There is a kindred spirit no other state e'er knows."
- Lodging
-
Bardstown has been named one of the best small towns in America, which is another way of saying the burg doesn't boast any oversized grand hotels. Instead, visitors are invited to enjoy the historic accommodations and warm Kentucky hospitality offered by the area's many bed and breakfasts. We've reserved rooms for our participants at the following centrally-located inns. When you call to secure your spot, just tell 'em The American Table sent you.
-
Jailer's Inn: The safest night's sleep in Nelson County. The Jailer's Inn is housed in a renovated 1819 jail, complete with barred windows and three-foot thick walls. $70-$125/night plus tax. (502)348-5551.
- The Old Talbott Tavern: Although most guests no longer arrive by stagecoach, this 18th century tavern still offers the weary traveler a glass of bourbon and a comfortable bed. The Talbott is consistently ranked among Bardstown's top inns, but the innkeeper has asked us to warn prospective guests that a rowdy frontier spirit reigns here: Live music from the bar reverberates through the rooms until midnight. $90-$160/night plus tax. (502)348-3494.
- The Colonel's Cottages: Kentucky colonels don't just fry chicken: These two unhosted inns are owned by Bardstown über-personality Col. Michael E. Masters, a descendant of Abraham Lincoln who also conducts weddings, roasts his own coffee and leads bourbon seminars. $168/night plus tax. (502)507-8338.
- Beautiful Dreamer: Stephen Foster was likely thinking about a Federal-style gem like this one when he penned "My Old Kentucky Home." $149-$179/night plus tax. (502)348-4004.
- Register now!
- Please visit our registration page to sign up.
